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MT. BARUNTSE
39 DAYS BARUNTSE EXPEDITION ( 7,129m )

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Baruntse is one of the beautiful 7,000m peaks in Nepal. It is also one of the few peaks of this height with a high rate of success of ascent on normal route. The approach to the mountain follows the Makalu base camp trek itinerary. The trek passes through lush green of Arun Valley , Makalu – Barun National Park well known for natural beauty and rich flora and fauna, several high passes with spectacular views of the mountains.

Makalu base camp is located at a grassy terrace at 4,900m near the snout of Barun Glacier. We follow the right bank of the glacier up along moraines to the base camp of Baruntse (5,250m). Normally, we establish two camps above the base camp in the approach of the mountain. The camp I is set up just below East Col. at an altitude of 5,700m and the camp II is on the South – East Ridge at a height of 6,420m. From the camp I, we cross East Col. and descend down through steep slopes. We then traverse a large snow plateau and move towards the bottom of the South – East Ridge. We then move through steeping slopes of the ridge to a small Col. , the site of the camp II at the height of 6,420m.

From camp II, we climb steep snow slopes (45 degrees) and frequently pass a series of short steep steps of ice and snow until we reach the west side of the ridge. Then we past through short sections of rock scrambling which leads to a marked cleft and ice cliff and getting over these leads to the easy and broader slopes and finally, to 7,129m, the summit. The descend is by the same route.

Itinerary

 

Day 01:

Arrival in Kathmandu and hotel transfer

Day 02-04:

Offical formalities in Kathmandu.

Day 05:

Fly to Lukla

Day 06:

Chhatra La Base Camp

Day 07:

Thasing Dingma

Day 08:

Thagnak

Day 09:

Khare Kharka

Day 10:

Pokhari Camp

Day 11:

Baruntse Base Camp

Day 12-30:

Climbing period

Day 31:

Pokhari Camp

Day 32:

Mera Peak Base Camp

Day 33:

Thagnak

Day 34:

Thasing Dingma

Day 35:

Chhatra Kharka

Day 36:

Lukla

Day 37:

Lukla – Kathmandu by flight.

Day 38:

Free day in Kathmandu

Day 39:

Departure

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