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MT. BARUNTSE
39 DAYS BARUNTSE EXPEDITION ( 7,129m )
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Baruntse
is one of the beautiful 7,000m peaks in Nepal. It is also one
of the few peaks of this height with a high rate of success
of ascent on normal route. The approach to the mountain follows
the Makalu base camp trek itinerary. The trek passes through
lush green of Arun Valley , Makalu – Barun National Park well
known for natural beauty and rich flora and fauna, several high
passes with spectacular views of the mountains.
Makalu base camp is located at
a grassy terrace at 4,900m near the snout of Barun Glacier.
We follow the right bank of the glacier up along moraines to
the base camp of Baruntse (5,250m). Normally, we establish two
camps above the base camp in the approach of the mountain. The
camp I is set up just below East Col. at an altitude of 5,700m
and the camp II is on the South – East Ridge at a height of
6,420m. From the camp I, we cross East Col. and descend down
through steep slopes. We then traverse a large snow plateau
and move towards the bottom of the South – East Ridge. We then
move through steeping slopes of the ridge to a small Col. ,
the site of the camp II at the height of 6,420m.
From camp II, we climb steep
snow slopes (45 degrees) and frequently pass a series of short
steep steps of ice and snow until we reach the west side of
the ridge. Then we past through short sections of rock scrambling
which leads to a marked cleft and ice cliff and getting over
these leads to the easy and broader slopes and finally, to 7,129m,
the summit. The descend is by the same route.
| Itinerary |
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| Day 01: |
Arrival in Kathmandu
and hotel transfer |
| Day 02-04: |
Offical formalities
in Kathmandu. |
| Day 05: |
Fly to Lukla |
| Day 06: |
Chhatra La Base Camp |
| Day 07: |
Thasing Dingma |
| Day 08: |
Thagnak |
| Day 09: |
Khare Kharka |
| Day 10: |
Pokhari Camp |
| Day 11: |
Baruntse Base Camp |
| Day 12-30: |
Climbing
period |
| Day 31: |
Pokhari Camp |
| Day 32: |
Mera Peak Base Camp |
| Day 33: |
Thagnak |
| Day 34: |
Thasing Dingma |
| Day 35: |
Chhatra Kharka |
| Day 36: |
Lukla |
| Day 37: |
Lukla – Kathmandu by
flight. |
| Day 38: |
Free day in Kathmandu |
| Day 39: |
Departure |
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