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Island
Peak
24
DAYS ISLAND PEAK (6,189m)
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This
is the most popular trekking peak in Nepal. From Dingboche the
mountain is seen as an island in a sea of ice. The summit is
interesting and attractive with a highly glaciated west face
rising from the Lhotse Glacier.The mountain itself is the extension
of the South Ridge of Lhotse Shar seperated by a small col.
The ridge rising to the south from this point leads to the summit
of Island Peak. The extension of this ridge descending south-west
is the part of the normal route of ascent and leads to the South
Summit. Imja Tse not only provides an enjoyable climb but also
provides some of the most spectacular scenery of Himalayas in
the Khumbu region. Seen from the summit the giant mountains,
Nuptse (7,879m), Lhotse (8,501m), Lhotse Middle Peak (8,410m)
and Lhotse Shar (8,383m) make a semi circle in the north. The
views of Makalu (8475m) in the east, Baruntse and Amadablam
in the south add more charm for climbing Island Peak.
South East Flank & South-West Ridge
Normally, the base camp is set at Pareshaya Gyab
(5,087m), between Imja Tse and the lateral moraine of the Imja
Glacier. It should not be forgotten that the place is more likely
for avalanche in the event of heavy snow fall.
From the base camp, a well acclimatized party
in good conditions can make the summit and return to the base
camp in a day. However, most of the climbers prefer alpine style
camping at high camp which helps a safe ascent. From the base
camp the route skirts south east around and base of Imja Tse
and climbs steep grassy slopes and small rocky steps. We scramble
up on open gully which leads between two ridges to the site
of high camp on the left-hand ridge below and to the right of
a small hanging glacier (5, 280m).
From the high camp, the left hand ridge scramble
across the broad open gully. After crossing a gully a steep
snow and ice ramp leads upward for nearly 100 meters to the
summit ridge. Climbing near the summit is a little difficult
due to steep climbing.
Itinerary
| Day 01: |
Arrive in Kathmandu and
transfer to Hotel. |
| Day 02-3: |
Free day in Kathmandu. |
| Day 04: |
Khamandu - Lukla by flight.
Trek to Phakding. |
| Day 05: |
Namche Bazaar. |
| Day 06: |
Rest at Namche Bazar for
acclimatization. |
| Day 07: |
Khumjung. |
| Day 08: |
Dole. |
| Day 09: |
Machermo. |
| Day 10: |
Gokyo - Gokyo Ri - Na. |
| Day 11: |
Phortse |
| Day 12: |
Pangboche |
| Day 13: |
Chhukhung. |
| Day 14: |
Island Peak Base Camp. |
| Day 15: |
Rest at Base Camp |
| Day 16: |
High Camp. |
| Day 17: |
Summit - Chhukhung. |
| Day 18: |
Dingboche. |
| Day 19: |
Tengboche. |
| Day 20: |
Namche Bazaar. |
| Day 21: |
Lukla. |
| Day 22: |
Lukla - Kathamandu by flight. |
| Day 23: |
Free day in Kathmandu |
| Day 24: |
Departure |
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